Saturday, March 30, 2024

Nettle Ravioli


A bit of fancy for spring's first fresh greens. Stinging nettles are full of nutrients and blah blah blah. Most importantly, they are tasty! For seasonal cooking, what's left in your stores that can go with the first of the year's fresh food? I came up with this earthy, grounding recipe that's also a li'l bit fancy. The pine nuts can be replaced by other locally grown nuts like walnuts or hazelnuts. As with many substitutions, you may have to adjust the quantity a bit to balance the flavors to your liking.


Pasta dough
2 cups flour (or try 3 oz flour per egg)
3 eggs
pinch salt

Filling
50g by weight stinging nettle leaves, tough stems removed
1 clove garlic
25g by weight of pine nuts
1 egg
salt and pepper
a little oil

Sauce
1/4 cup (2oz/58gr) butter per 16 ravioli (for dairy free, substitute with olive oil)
1 clove garlic, pressed
1 Tbsp snipped fresh sage, oregano, Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, and/or chives or 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

Garnish
Ground black pepper
Grated parmesan

Pasta - part 1
  1. On a board or the counter, make a mound of flour, sprinkle on the salt, create a bowl in the centre of the flour mound, crack in the eggs and start combining with your fingers. You should end up with a very dry dough, almost cracking. Cover and allow to rest for 1 hour. 
Filling
  1. Simmer all the nettles in a little water for ten minutes then drain. 
  2. Put the nettle on a strong paper towel or tea towel, fold the towel to make a bag around the nettle, and twist to squeeze out the excess water. The nettle should be a little clump of just moist, pressed material when you're done. Chop finely.
  3. Roughly grind the pine nuts.
  4. In a small bowl whisk the egg. Mix in the chopped nettles, pressed garlic, pine nuts, salt and pepper.
  5. Heat a small non-stick pan, add a little oil, and dump in the egg and nettle mixture. Cook just until the egg starts to solidify.
  6. Set aside while rolling out the pasta.
Pasta - part 2
  1. After the hour of rest, knead the dough for about 10 minutes before rolling out the pasta.
  2. Divide the dough into two balls and roll as thin as you can (1/8" or thinner) or run through the pasta machine up to the thinnest setting. If the dough is sticky when you're rolling it, there isn't enough flour, so sprinkle some on, fold, and run it through again until it becomes a nice smooth sheet.
  3. To stuff the ravioli: lay out one sheet of pasta on a floured surface. Evenly space out small lumps of the filling allowing plenty of room of virgin dough to make a good seal. Brush around the filling with water.
  4. Lay the second sheet of pasta on top, smoothing out and pressing gently to make the two sheets touch around the stuffing and seal with the help of the dampened bottom sheet (this last bit can also be done after cutting the shapes).
  5. Cut out the ravioli in circles or squares with a knife or pasta cutter. Press out any remaining air bubbles and be OCD about pressing the edges a lot.
  6. While bringing a large pot of salted water to a simmer, prepare the sauce.
The Sauce
  1. In a medium saucepan, heat the butter to a froth and cook about 4-5 minutes. 
  2. Add the pressed garlic and continue cooking and stirring over medium heat until the butter is lightly browned, another 2-4 minutes. 
  3. Remove from heat and stir in the herb(s).
The Big Finish
  1. Reduce the heat under the boiling water and let it slow to a gentle simmer. Carefully drop in the ravioli and cook until they rise to the surface and puff up (3-4 minutes). 
  2. With a slotted spoon remove the ravioli and put directly in the sauce, covering each of them with the butter sauce before dropping in the next one.
  3. Plate the ravioli, drizzle any remaining sauce on top, and garnish with fresh ground pepper and parmesan.

Wednesday, January 31, 2024

Ensalada de col (Mexican spiced coleslaw)

Goes very well with Refried Beans!

½ cup chopped cilantro
½ of a small onion (2oz/62g) chopped, preferably red
½ cup (115g) red wine vinegar
¼ cup (50g) olive oil
2 Tbsps. (30g) lime juice, about one lime
1 Tbsp cumin
1/2 tsp salt
4 cups (400gr) shredded cabbage (can be a mix of different brassicas, shredded)
  1. Put everything except for the cabbage in a mason jar and shake like a cocktail. The succussion will emulsify the ingredients very quickly. Allow the dressing to sit while prepping the rest of the salad so that the flavors can combine. 
  2. Combine dressing with the cabbage and serve. You can also do this the day before and allow for the cabbage to wilt a little in the dressing.

Boules de Noël - Chocolate wrapped peanut butter balls

Holidays are filled with family recipes. I have many favorites, but few that I actually make. This is one that I love to make. The peanut butter center has a lovely consistency, and the soft walnuts and chewy dates complement each other very well. No fancy chocolate - it melts in your fingers so you're forced to lick it off

Centre

1/2 cup icing sugar (75g)
1 cup peanut butter (250g)
1 cup finely chopped cooking dates (140g)
1 cup finely chopped walnuts (110g)
1 Tbsp butter (15g)
1 tsp vanilla
  1. Mix ingredients together until uniform. 
  2. Roll into small balls and put on wax or parchment paper and let set in the refrigerator. Makes about 30.
Chocolate covering

250 grams semi-sweet chocolate
  1. Melt together in bain marie, allow to cool slightly, then dip balls to cover. Set on wax or parchment paper and allow to cool completely. Refrigerate to avoid sticking.

Friday, December 15, 2023

Pork Pot Pie with Dumpling Topping

1 Tbsp fat (veg oil or lard)
8oz pork loin cut into ¼" pieces
1 lb fresh sausage in 1" pieces or crumbled, to taste (I use Italian sausage)
½ tsp salt
Black pepper to taste
1 Tbsp fat (veg oil or lard)
½ onion (4oz/115g) chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup flour
¼ cup brandy or cognac (whiskey will do in a pinch)
3 cups chicken broth or stock 
¼ cup heavy cream 
2 medium carrots, sliced 
8oz potatoes, cubed smallish
OPTIONAL 1½ cups fine chopped kale or cabbage
  1. This is a one-pot meal so be sure to have a pot big enough to contain the filling and allow for the dumplings to rise and spread. 
  2. Heat the pot for a few minutes then add the fat. Brown the cubed pork and set aside. 
  3. You should have at least 2 Tbsps. of fat from cooking the meat. If not, add some butter or more lard. 
  4. In the hot leftover oil, cook the sausage. 
  5. When the excess moisture from the meat has mostly evaporated, add the onions and garlic to the sausage, stirring until soft and transparent. 
  6. Stir in the flour until completely combined. Take the time to brown the flour in the fat to cook away pasty raw flour taste. Pour in the cognac or brandy or whiskey and combine, stirring constantly until the sharp alcoholic aroma leaves the liquor and is reduced, at least by half. The bottom of your pot will likely be dark brown with cooked-on fond. This is great! 
  7. Add the chicken broth and cream, and stir to combine. If it looks a bit lumpy, don't worry, it'll smooth out during the simmering. You can also spend some time loosening some of the fond by scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon.
  8. Add the browned pork (and the kale if using) and bring to a simmer and braise until the pork is fork tender, about ½ hour. 
  9. Stir in carrots and potatoes. Return to a simmer and cook another 15 minutes before adding the dumplings.
Dumplings
1¼  cups flour
3½  tsps. baking powder
½  tsp salt
½  cup milk
1 egg
OPTIONAL : ½ tsp dry herb that complements the flavor of your sausage
  1. Mix together dry ingredients just before adding to the pot. Letting the batter sit isn't good. 
  2. In a separate bowl, mix milk and egg together. 
  3. Dump wet over dry and mix briefly, only enough that the dry and wet are well blended. 
  4. Divide dough into four portions and gently plop on top of the stew in the pot. 
  5. Cover and cook 15 minutes. NOTE: Do not lift lid until done.

Saturday, December 9, 2023

Plain old Tomato Spaghetti Sauce

Pasta with tomato sauce was an inexpensive  mainstay in my kitchen while in university. This is a slightly more fulsome version. Very good just on spaghetti and also good in recipes requiring a tomato sauce such as lasagna.

3 Tbsps. (40g) olive oil
1 medium onion (6oz/170gr) , chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
OPTIONAL ½ lb. mushrooms, sliced AND/OR 1 chopped green pepper
2 tsps. dry basil OR 2 Tbsps. fresh basil, minced
1 tsp oregano OR 1 Tbsp fresh oregano, minced
2 bay leaves
1½ tsps. salt, to taste
¼ cup red wine, to taste
28oz (796 mL) canned tomato, diced or purée 
156mL (approx. 6oz) tomato paste
¼ tsp black pepper
Optional - 1 medium tomato, chopped
  1. Heat the oil in a saucepan and add the onion to sauté. While the onions cook, chop and/or add the garlic, green pepper, optional mushrooms, basil, oregano, bay leaves and salt. Continue to cook until the onions transparent and very soft.
  2. Add the wine to deglaze the pan and reduce the wine completely (or to taste).
  3. Add the canned tomato and paste, and pepper.
  4. Cover and very slowly simmer for at least 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  5. Halfway through, add the optional fresh tomato - you don't necessarily want it to break down completely, especially if you're using purée.
  6. Before serving add the parsley.
  7. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan

Monday, December 4, 2023

Zuppa di pasta e fagioli

Hearty and warming. I usually don't like pasta that get all fat and soggy, but in this soup it actually works. The starch from the pasta cooking in the soup makes the broth wonderfully silky, and the soft pasta works well with the beans. This is a quick weekday version, but there's a more involved, slower version that makes the beans much more flavorful.

Number of portions: 6 servings
Serving size: ~550 g
Calories per serving: ~395 kcal (reduced from ~430)

1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2-3 slices bacon (35-50gr), cut into lardons 
5 cloves garlic, smashed
1 small onion (4oz/114g) roughly chopped
¼ tsp red pepper flakes, or more to taste
½ tsp fennel seeds
5 fresh plum tomatoes (10oz/285mg) or ½ canned, diced 14oz (398mL) 
2 lb. 5 oz cooked beans like pinto or romano or cannellini 
6 cups water (only 3 cups if using cooked beans)
6 cups light beef broth (1 Tbsp Better Than Bouillon)
2 bay leaves
1 piece parmesan cheese rind (30 to 40g)
1 tsp salt, to taste
1 sprig finely chopped fresh rosemary
1/3 cup (43g) grated parmesan, and more for topping
8oz/230g small pasta such as shells or ditalini or orzo
1 bunch (4 to 8oz) mustard leaves, ribs sliced thin, leaves chopped (can subst. kale and/or chard)
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsps. olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 to 2 tsps white wine vinegar to drizzle on top
Lots of freshly ground pepper
OPTIONAL - Fresh Croutons
  1. Render the lardons in a large soup pot (it makes lots of soup) until lightly brown and crispy. Remove all but 1 Tbsp of fat and add the olive oil. This is to increase heart-healthy practices. If it isn't a concern for you, keep the bacon fat and never mind the rest.
  2. Add the garlic, onion, red pepper flakes and fennel seeds. Cook until the onions soften.
  3. Stir in the tomatoes and cook until they start to release their juices. If using canned tomato, cook until they start to break down.
  4. Add the beans, water, broth, bay leaves and parmesan rind and stems cut away from the greens. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the flavors soften and blend, about 20 to 30 minutes.
  5. Return the soup to a boil and add the kale/chard leaves and the pasta and cook until the pasta is cooked. (NOTE: if using mustard greens, they are more delicate and cook more quickly. Wait until pasta is cooked and water level is correct, then add and cook for about 5 minutes.)
  6. The soup should be thick and creamy; if too thick, thin with water until you get the consistency you want.
  7. Remove the bay leaves and parmesan rind; add the salt, rosemary, the grated parmesan, parsley and remaining 2 Tbsps. olive oil. Adjust seasoning to taste. Top with more olive oil and parmesan and a few grinds of black pepper. Optional is a drizzle of white wine vinegar per serving.
  8. Optional 'croutons'. These are not true croutons, just a quick and dirty version. Figure for 1 slice per bowl of soup. Double toast some bread until pretty dry (but not completely), butter while hot, and chop up with a knife. Garnish each bowl of soup.

Friday, October 20, 2023

Gnocchi di Polenta with Sage Browned Butter

Originally a failed recipe from Elizabeth Davis' book French Country Cooking, Gnocchi à la Romaine with sage brown butter sauce. I misread and used cornmeal instead of wheat semolina, therefore I feel like it has become it's own thing. A bit stodgy on its own, I've included a few suggestions for what could go well with it at the end of the recipe.

Number of portions: 6
Serving size: ~300 g per portion 
Calories per serving: ~520 kcal 
Speed: Slow Food 
Experienced cook (active time): ~45–60 minutes 
Novice cook (active time): ~75–90 minutes 
Total elapsed time: ~4–5 hours 
LHSS Score: 8.0 / 10

6 cups milk (1485g)
1½ tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
¾ tsp nutmeg
3 Tbsp minced chives
12 oz (340g) cornmeal, fine or medium grind
⅓ cup and 1 rounded Tbsp (3oz/85g) butter + 2 oz butter + extra
⅓ cup and 1 rounded Tbsp (3oz/85g) + ⅓ cup and 1 rounded Tbsp grated Asiago or Gruyère
3 eggs, whisked
8 fresh sage leaves
  1. This dish takes a long time since the cornmeal paste needs to cool completely, so make the paste in the morning for an evening meal. 
  2. Cornmeal paste
    1. Put the milk in a medium saucepan and slowly bring to a boil, stirring frequently.
    2. As the milk warms, add the:
      1. salt and pepper
      2. nutmeg
      3. chives
      4. cornmeal and 
      5. 3oz of butter. 
    3. Stir constantly.
    4. When it starts to gently boil, turn down the heat. Use a long-handled wooden spoon and stir stir vigorously to avoid getting burned by the bubbles popping in the thick paste. 
    5. Stir until it stiffens to a consistency where a wooden spoon can stand in it. Remove from the heat.
    6. Mix in 3oz of the cheese and stir until the batter is smooth.
    7. Whisk in the egg until completely incorporated.
    8. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment paper and evenly spread the paste to a thickness of 1⁄4" to 1⁄2" and set aside allow plenty of time for it to get cold in the refrigerator, until very stiff.
  3. Baking
    1. Once the cornmeal filling is cooled, preheat the oven to 350°F.
    2. Grease a gratin dish or a lasagna dish. Cut the lump of paste into 1½" diameter rounds or 1½" squares and arrange them in an overlapping pattern like fish scales.
    3. Sprinkle the remaining 3oz cheese on top.
    4. Put in the oven for 45 minutes to one hour, or until the dish is bubbling nicely all over.
  4. Now, turn on the broiler and cook this way until the cheese starts to brown in spots.
  5. Browned Butter with Sage
    1. Meanwhile, put the remaining butter in a small saucepan and melt at medium-high heat. 
    2. The butter will start to froth and making crackling sounds. 
    3. When the frothing stops and the crackling slows, look to the bottom of the pot and you will see the milk solids, which have separated and settled there.
    4. When the milk solids start to turn golden brown, remove immediately from the heat source - this stage is quite quick when it comes, and left any longer the butter will be in danger of burning.
    5. Add the sage leaves and leave for at least 5 minutes for the sage to infuse.
  6. When the dish is ready, remove from the oven and pour the browned sage butter over it.
  7. Serve immediately as a side or with something a bit tart or vinegary, such as a crunchy salad like Salade de Carrottes, or a selection of pickled vegetables like onions, beets and carrots or Pâtissons Gratinée (summer squash au gratin).