Friday, December 15, 2023

Pork Pot Pie with Dumpling Topping

1 Tbsp fat (veg oil or lard)
8oz pork loin cut into ¼" pieces
1 lb fresh sausage in 1" pieces or crumbled, to taste (I use Italian sausage)
½ tsp salt
Black pepper to taste
1 Tbsp fat (veg oil or lard)
½ onion (4oz/115g) chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup flour
¼ cup brandy or cognac (whiskey will do in a pinch)
3 cups chicken broth or stock 
¼ cup heavy cream 
2 medium carrots, sliced 
8oz potatoes, cubed smallish
OPTIONAL 1½ cups fine chopped kale or cabbage
  1. This is a one-pot meal so be sure to have a pot big enough to contain the filling and allow for the dumplings to rise and spread. 
  2. Heat the pot for a few minutes then add the fat. Brown the cubed pork and set aside. 
  3. You should have at least 2 Tbsps. of fat from cooking the meat. If not, add some butter or more lard. 
  4. In the hot leftover oil, cook the sausage. 
  5. When the excess moisture from the meat has mostly evaporated, add the onions and garlic to the sausage, stirring until soft and transparent. 
  6. Stir in the flour until completely combined. Take the time to brown the flour in the fat to cook away pasty raw flour taste. Pour in the cognac or brandy or whiskey and combine, stirring constantly until the sharp alcoholic aroma leaves the liquor and is reduced, at least by half. The bottom of your pot will likely be dark brown with cooked-on fond. This is great! 
  7. Add the chicken broth and cream, and stir to combine. If it looks a bit lumpy, don't worry, it'll smooth out during the simmering. You can also spend some time loosening some of the fond by scraping the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon.
  8. Add the browned pork (and the kale if using) and bring to a simmer and braise until the pork is fork tender, about ½ hour. 
  9. Stir in carrots and potatoes. Return to a simmer and cook another 15 minutes before adding the dumplings.
Dumplings
1¼  cups flour
3½  tsps. baking powder
½  tsp salt
½  cup milk
1 egg
OPTIONAL : ½ tsp dry herb that complements the flavor of your sausage
  1. Mix together dry ingredients just before adding to the pot. Letting the batter sit isn't good. 
  2. In a separate bowl, mix milk and egg together. 
  3. Dump wet over dry and mix briefly, only enough that the dry and wet are well blended. 
  4. Divide dough into four portions and gently plop on top of the stew in the pot. 
  5. Cover and cook 15 minutes. NOTE: Do not lift lid until done.

Saturday, December 9, 2023

Plain old Tomato Spaghetti Sauce

Pasta with tomato sauce was an inexpensive  mainstay in my kitchen while in university. This is a slightly more fulsome version. Very good just on spaghetti and also good in recipes requiring a tomato sauce such as lasagna.

3 Tbsps. olive oil
1 medium onion (6oz/170gr) , chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
OPTIONAL ½ lb. mushrooms, sliced AND/OR 1 chopped green pepper
2 tsps. dry basil OR 2 Tbsps. fresh basil, minced
1 tsp oregano OR 1 Tbsp fresh oregano, minced
2 bay leaves
1½ tsps. salt, to taste
28oz (796 mL) canned tomato, diced or purée 
6oz tomato paste
2 Tbsps. red wine, to taste
¼ tsp black pepper
Optional - 1 medium tomato, chopped
  1. Heat the oil in a saucepan and add the onion and garlic to sauté. While the onions cook, chop and/or add the garlic, green pepper, optional mushrooms, basil, oregano, bay leaves and salt. Continue to cook until the onions transparent and very soft.
  2. When the onions are cooked, add the tomato purée and paste, red wine, fresh tomato and pepper.
  3. Cover and very slowly simmer for at least 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  4. Before serving add the parsley.
  5. Serve with freshly grated Parmesan

Monday, December 4, 2023

Zuppa di pasta e fagioli

Hearty and warming. I usually don't like pasta that get all fat and soggy, but in this soup it actually works. The starch from the pasta cooking in the soup makes the broth wonderfully silky, and the soft pasta works well with the beans.

1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for drizzling
5 slices bacon (70gr), cut into lardons 
5 cloves garlic, smashed
1 small onion, roughly chopped
¼ tsp red pepper flakes, or more to taste
1 sprig finely chopped fresh rosemary
5 fresh plum tomatoes (10oz/285mg) or ½ canned, diced  
1 lb dry beans
    -  or 3 pounds fresh, shelled, preferably cranberry/borlotti beans
    -  for dried any larger bean like pinto or romano
6 cups water 
6 cups beef broth
2 bay leaves
1 piece parmesan cheese rind
1 tsp salt, to taste
½ cup (1oz/128g) grated parmesan, and more for topping
8 oz small pasta such as shells or ditalini or orzo
1 bunch (4 to 8oz) kale and/or chard, stems and ribs sliced thin, leaves chopped 
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
2 Tbsps. olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Lots of freshly ground pepper
OPTIONAL - Fresh Croutons
  1. Heat the oil in a large pot (this makes lots of soup) and render the bacon until it's crispy.
  2. Add the garlic, onion, red pepper flakes and rosemary. Cook until the onions soften.
  3. Stir in the tomatoes and cook until they start to release their juices. 
  4. Add the beans, water, broth, bay leaves and parmesan rind and kale stems and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the beans are tender, 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours.
  5. Return the soup to a boil. Add the kale/chard leaves and the pasta and cook until the pasta is cooked.  
  6. The soup should be thick and creamy; if too thick, thin with water until you get the consistency you want.
  7. Remove the bay leaves and parmesan rind; add the salt, the grated parmesan, parsley and remaining 2 Tbsps. olive oil. Adjust seasoning to taste. Top with more olive oil and parmesan and a few grinds of black pepper.
  8. Optional 'croutons'. These are not true croutons, just a quick and dirty version. Figure for 1 slice per bowl of soup. Double toast some bread until pretty dry (but not completely), butter while hot, and chop up with a knife. Garnish each bowl of soup.

Friday, October 20, 2023

Cornmeal Souffle with Sage Browned Butter

Originally a failed recipe from Elizabeth Davis' book French Country Cooking, Gnocchi à la Romaine with sage brown butter sauce. I misread and used cornmeal instead of wheat semolina, therefore I feel like it has become it's own thing. A bit stodgy on its own, I've included a few suggestions for what could go well with it at the end of the recipe.

6 cups milk
1½ tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
¾ tsp nutmeg
3 Tbsp minced chives
12 oz (340g) cornmeal, fine or medium grind
⅓ cup and 1 rounded Tbsp (3oz/85g) butter + 2 oz butter + extra
⅓ cup and 1 rounded Tbsp (3oz/85g) + ⅓ cup and 1 rounded Tbsp grated Asiago or Gruyère
3 eggs, whisked
8 fresh sage leaves
  1. This dish takes a long time since the cornmeal paste needs to cool completely, so make the paste in the morning for an evening meal. 
  2. Put the milk in a medium saucepan and slowly bring to a boil, stirring frequently.
  3. As the milk warms, add the salt, pepper, nutmeg, chives, cornmeal and the first 3oz of butter. Stir constantly.
  4. When it start to gently boil, turn down the heat. You'll likely have to stir vigorously to avoid getting burned by the bubbles popping in the thick paste. 
  5. Stir until it stiffens to a consistency where a wooden spoon can stand in it. Remove from the heat.
  6. Mix in the first 3oz of the cheese and stir until the batter is smooth.
  7. Whisk in the egg until completely incorporated.
  8. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment paper and evenly spread the paste to a thickness of 1⁄4" to 1⁄2" and set aside allow plenty of time for it to get cold in the refrigerator until very stiff.
  9. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  10. Once the paste is cold and nicely stiff, grease a gratin dish (or a lasagna dish? Last time I really had to cram it in). Cut the lump of paste into 1½" diameter rounds or 1½" squares and arrange them in an overlapping pattern like fish scales.
  11. Sprinkle the remaining 3oz cheese on top.
  12. Put in the oven for 45 minutes to on hour, or until the dish is bubbling nicely all over.
  13. Now, turn on the broiler and cook this way until the cheese starts to brown in spots.
  14. Meanwhile, put the remaining butter in a small saucepan and melt at medium-high heat. 
    1. The butter will start to froth and making crackling sounds. 
    2. When the frothing stops and the crackling slows, look to the bottom of the pot and you will see the milk solids, which have separated and settled there.
    3. When the milk solids start to turn golden brown, remove immediately from the heat source - this stage is quite quick when it comes, and left any longer the butter will be in danger of burning.
    4. Add the sage leaves and leave for at least 5 minutes for the sage to infuse.
  15. When the gnocchi is ready, remove from the oven and pour over the browned sage butter.
  16. Serve immediately as a side or with something a bit tart or vinegary, such as a crunchy salad like Salade de Carrottes, or a selection of pickled vegetables like onions, beets and carrots or Pâtissons Gratinée (summer squash au gratin).

Saturday, October 14, 2023

Quick Sweet or Hot Italian Sausage Meat Recipe

Since we've raised our own pigs I wanted to figure out how to make my own sausage, but that turned out to be more challenging than I thought. I haven't figured out a sausage recipe for the meat to have lovely, tender, succulent roasted fresh sausages, but I have figured out a quick herb and spice mix for Italian sausages that I can use ground pork with for braised recipes.

1lb ground pork (not lean)
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp salt
½ tsp brown sugar
1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
1 tsp cracked black pepper
dash nutmeg (optional?)
½ tsp dried oregano
½ tsp dried thyme
1 to 2 Tbsps fresh parsley, minced
1 tsp dried basil
¾ tsp paprika
FOR HOT = ¾ tsp crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
  1. Place the pork and red wine vinegar in a mixing bowl. Sprinkle with the remaining ingredients. Knead until you can see flecks of spice evenly distributed through the meat.

Kitchari

This is such a soothing dish without skimping on lots of flavor. 

Timing: 45 minutes

1 Tbsp mild vegetable oil (sesame is good)
2 tsps whole cumin seeds 
2 tsps whole mustard seeds 
5 Tbsps (100gr) finely grated fresh ginger
2 carrots, sliced 
1 cup basmati white rice
1½ cups red lentils (or the more classic split yellow moong dal aka split mung beans)
½ tsp ground cardamom
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground turmeric (plus more to taste)
1½ tsps sea salt (plus more to taste)
8 cups water
2-3 Tbsps tamari sauce (to taste)

FOR SERVING 
Chopped fresh cilantro
Lemon or lime juice 
  1. Soak the lentils and rice overnight. Drain completely before using.
  2. Heat the oil with the cumin and mustard seeds until the mustard seeds start to pop and the cumin is fragrant.
  3. Add everything else EXCEPT for the tamari sauce.
  4. Bring to a boil then simmer for at least 20-30 minutes or until the rice and lentils are completely cooked and tender. Leave it longer and it will break down more, which I personally quite enjoy. It's up to you, but keep in mind that you can't overcook it, unless you burn it!
  5. Add the tamari sauce and taste to adjust the seasoning.
  6. Serve and provide garnishes of fresh cilantro and citrus juice.

Sunday, October 8, 2023

Soda Bread with Caraway Seeds


3 1⁄2 cups flour
1⁄2 cup sugar
1⁄2 tsp baking soda
2 tsps. baking powder
2 tsps. salt
2 Tbsps. caraway seeds
2 cups sour cream or yogurt 3.5%
2 eggs
Optional : 
1cup (2.5oz) sharp cheddar
3⁄4 cup raisins
  1. Preheated the oven to 350ºF.
  2. Combine dry ingredients together in a large bowl.
  3. In a small bowl beat eggs and stir in sour cream.
  4. Add the egg mixture optional ingredients, if using, to the dry ingredients and stir with a wooden spoon.
  5. Batter will be very thick and sticky.
  6. Place batter in a greased 9 inch spring form pan.
  7. If you find the dough too sticky, you can dust the top with enough flour so that you can pat the batter like a bread dough evenly in the pan without it sticking to your hands.
  8. With a knife make a shallow crisscross on the top.
  9. Bake for 50 minutes.

Saturday, October 7, 2023

Hummus

Chickpeas are really easy to grow and are so cool! The leaves are tiny and covered in fine hairs that, even in drought conditions, capture moisture from the air so that if you touch them, your hand comes away wet. Each pod only contains 2 chickpeas but there are lots per plant. Apparently, we can also grow sesame for seeds on the West Coast, but the plants need a long growing period so have to be started indoors - and they prefer poor soil! I still have to do this successfully but it means I can cook with sesame if I want to cook what can be produced locally. And hummus is such a delicious, simple source of protein and calories.

1½ cups chickpeas, cooked (285g) (½ cup dried) 
½ cup + cooking liquid (save chickpea cooking water known as aquafaba)
3 garlic cloves, minced
Juice of 2 lemons
½ cup Tahini
¼ cup olive oil
1 tsp salt
Black pepper, to taste
  1. The day before, put the chickpeas in plenty of water and bring to a boil and immediately remove from heat. Allow to soak overnight.
  2. Next day, cook until soft, about an hour.
  3. Drain and keep ½ cup of cooking liquid.
  4. Dump all the ingredients in a food processor and run until it becomes a smooth-ish paste. Add a little more cooking water if it's too thick.
  5. With a spatula scrape down the sides and process again to get any bits that may not have gone through.
  6. Taste to correct the seasonings.

Monday, October 2, 2023

Classic Snickerdoodles

Snickerdoodles appear to be much like peanut butter cookies in that there appears to be near universal agreement on the recipe. I was searching because this is not food of my people, but food of Ben's people. For years I thought it was a Christmas tradition for him to have snickerdoodles, but apparently I was mistaken and you can have them anytime. Therefore, I shall!

Cookie
1 cup (8oz/225gr) butter at room temperature
1½ cups sugar
2 large eggs
2 tsps. vanilla
2¾ cup flour
1½ tsps. cream of Tartar
½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt

Cinnamon-Sugar Topping
¼ cup sugar (2 Tbsps.)
1½ Tbsps. cinnamon (3½ tsps.)
  1. Place oven rack in the top ⅓ of the oven. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
  2. In a large mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar for 4 to 5 minutes until light and fluffy.  Scrape the sides of the bowl and add the eggs and vanilla. Cream for 1 to 2 minutes longer until you feel that it has fluffed up enough. 
  3. Stir in the flour, cream of tartar, baking soda, and salt, just until combined. 
  4. In a small bowl, stir together the sugar and cinnamon. 
  5. If time allows, wrap the dough and let refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes.  
  6. Roll into small balls (½ oz to 1 oz) until round and smooth. 
  7. Drop into the cinnamon-sugar mixture and roll to cover either half or the whole ball of dough. 
  8. Place on the parchment paper lined baking sheet, cinnamon sugar-coated face up, and gently flatten to a thick 1¼" disc. 
  9. Bake for 15 minutes or until the edges just start to brown.  Let cool for several minutes on the baking sheet before removing from the pan. 
NOTE: Do not freeze, or freezing is not recommended - it changes the texture.

Sunday, October 1, 2023

Summer Kitcharee


This is comfort food. The texture is creamy, the flavors are soothing (and a bit spicy) and the something is something. You know what I mean. Or you will once you eat some of this.

1 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 onion (6oz/170g) chopped
4 carrots (12 to 15oz) chopped
4 large celery stalks, chopped (2 tsps. celery seed)
2 medium potatoes, quartered and diced into bite-size pieces
10 cloves garlic (40g), minced
3” piece of peeled fresh ginger, minced (about 25g)
1 tsp hot curry powder (pref. Madras curry powder)
1 tsp garam masala 
¼ tsp  turmeric
1 tsp salt, to taste
Pinch or 2 red chili flakes, to taste
1 cup split red lentils or split mung dal
½ to ⅔ cup white Basmati rice 
8 cups vegetable broth
1 large bay leaf
2 zucchini (400g), quartered, sliced
2 cups (72g) Swiss chard, stemmed and julienned (or other greens)
1 to 2 handfuls of fresh green beans, cut into 1" lengths
½ tsp salt, to taste
To serve provide the following toppings:
- plain yogurt
- Braggs Aminos
- steamed broccoli
- fresh lemon slices
- chopped cilantro 
- parsley
  1. Cook the onion in the oil hot oil in a large soup pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat, until just starting to soften, about 5 minutes.
  2. Add carrots, celery, potato, garlic and ginger. Stir to combine and cover and let the vegetables sweat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and translucent.
  3. Add the spices and mix in, cooking for about a minute.
  4. Add the lentils, rice, broth, and bay leaf and bring to a gentle boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
  5. Add the zucchini squash and green beans and cover to cook for an additional 20 to 30 minutes or until the pulses start to fall apart and the veg is just tender.
  6. Stir in the spinach.
  7. Turn off the heat. Taste and season with salt, as needed.
  8. Ladle into bowls and serve with toppings as desired.

Tuesday, September 12, 2023

Slowly Cooked Spiced Red Cabbage Soup

This has Fall and Winter written all over it. All of the main ingredients are late season products or products that keep in the winter: bacon, onion, carrot, apple, cabbage. It has such a warming, comforting flavor, not quite like a dessert but it has all the earmarks of a soothing cold weather soup.

Cook Time: 2h30min

6 slices smoked bacon (approx. 190g), chopped en lardons
1 large onion (10oz/285g) finely diced
1 large carrot (4 to 5oz/145g) finely diced
1 firm, tart apple, finely diced
1½ tsps. caraway seeds
1 small head (1½ lbs.) cabbage, diced (preferably red but just for the appearance)
¼ tsp pepper
⅛ tsp nutmeg
In a cheesecloth bundle collect: 5 or 6 juniper berries; 3 or 4 whole cloves; 2 fresh bay leaves; a strip of fresh lemon or lime peel (grated instead, maybe?); 1 small cinnamon stick
1⁄4 cup plum vinegar or cider vinegar or red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp dark brown sugar
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups water
1 tsp salt
  1. In a soup pot render the fat from the bacon until the meat is crisp. Remove the bacon bits and set aside. If there isn't enough fat at the bottom of the pot, add some oil.
  2. Add the onion, carrot, apple, and caraway and cook until the onion is soft. 
  3. Add the cabbage and season with pepper and nutmeg. Cover and cook just to wilt the cabbage. 
  4. Return the bacon to the pot and add the spices, the vinegar, brown sugar, stock, water and salt, and bring to a boil. 
  5. Simmer uncovered until the cabbage is very tender and the soup has thickened/reduced, about 1 to 1½ hours.
  6. Adjust the salt to your taste.

Tuesday, August 1, 2023

Chickpea Curry

I try to eat locally as much as possible, focusing mostly on foods that can potentially be grown where I live (currently the West Coast of Canada). I even have started some experiments with growing ginger. There are however some items I know I won't ever, conceivably, be able to grow here. But I rest on a part of human history that is age old, which is the spice trade. We've been moving tasty bits of vegetable matter around for a long, long time.

1 cup (328gr) dry chickpeas
1 tsp salt
4 Tbsps. light vegetable oil
1/2 tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp dried chilli flakes (or 4 dried chillies)
3 cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick
Optional : 1/8 teaspoon asafoetida (hing)
1 medium onion, peeled and finely diced 
3-4 pressed garlic
1" fine grated ginger
2 Roma tomatoes (6oz/170g), pureed (fresh preferred, canned ok)
Dash ground allspice
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/2 tsp generic curry powder
1/4 tsp cayenne (or less - it is very hot)
1/4 cup or more water, or vegetable or chicken broth
1/2 tsp garam masala
2-3 Tbsps. finely chopped cilantro (optional)
  1. Soak the chickpeas in plenty of water overnight.  Bring fresh water to a boil, add drained chickpeas, simmer until soft.
  2. Heat oil in a wide sauté pan (pan should be at least 3″ deep) on med-high heat. Add mustard seeds, chillies, cloves, and cinnamon stick and Optional asafoetida. Fry for about 1 min or until fragrant.
  3. Turn down the heat and add onions to the pan and cook until onions soften and become translucent. Add garlic and ginger and cook for 1-2 mins.
  4. Add tomatoes to the pan, stir well, and then add allspice, coriander, cumin, turmeric, cayenne.
  5. Cook for 5 minutes, mixing well. Add garam masala and beans. Cover and simmer on low for 20 mins, stirring occasionally. Add liquid (water or broth) to get desired sauciness (should be a bit on the thick/dry side).
  6. Mash a quarter of the chickpeas and return to the pot and mix in to thicken what liquid there is.
  7. Turn off heat, garnish with cilantro, and serve over rice, or with flatbread, parathas, or naan.

Thursday, July 6, 2023

Spaghetti con aglio et olio

Simplicity and speed do not exclude delicious. This is a quick recipe which should take slightly longer than it takes to cook your pasta. While it is delicious with fresh pasta, in terms of timing, it has been calculated for dry spaghetti.

1 pound spaghetti
¼ cup pasta water
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp salt +
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch red pepper flakes
2 Tbsps chopped flat-leaf parsley
½ lemon, zested (2gr)
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, optional
OPTIONAL: Soft poached egg, 4 (1 per serving)
  1. Boil the spaghetti about 8 minutes or until al dente. RESERVE ¼ cup pasta water before draining.
  2. While the pasta cooks, combine the garlic, olive oil, 1 tsp salt and the red pepper flakes in a large skillet and warm over low heat until the garlic softens and turns golden.
  3. Reserve the pasta water and drain the pasta. 
  4. Add the pasta and the reserved water to the garlic mixture. 
  5. Allow to cook a couple of minutes, tossing often. 
  6. Add the parsley and lemon zest (if using), toss all together thoroughly. Adjust seasoning, to taste. 
  7. Serve topped with grated cheese, or pass around a bowl of grated cheese OR;
  8. Optionally, pop a soft poached egg on top.

Monday, July 3, 2023

Penne with Roasted Plum and Herbed Blue Cheese Sauce

Fruit and cheese is a classic combination, and added to a pasta makes for a stunning combination for a meal that feels wonderfully decadent. The brightness of the plums pair well with the unctuous fats of the cheese. The beauty of this dish is that it can be served hot or it makes a great picnic dish, cold on a bed of lettuce.

3 cups Penne pasta
18 Italian Prune plums, smallish, quartered
pinch of cinnamon powder
a little honey (½ to 1 tsp)
1 Tbsp light oil
1 small onion, finely minced
2 to 3 garlic cloves, pressed
¼ cup combined chives + basil + parsley (finely chopped)
3 oz Cambozola cheese, diced (for easy melting)
¼ tsp black pepper powder (coarsely ground)
salt to taste
2 Tbsps toasted nuts (walnuts or pine nuts or pecans)
Optional: lettuce leaves and 5 to 6 tsps extra virgin olive oil
  1. Pre-heat oven to 350°F.
  2. Set the pasta water to boil.
  3. Arrange the quartered plums on a cookie sheet, sprinkle with the cinnamon, drizzle a thin stream of honey on each one, not too much! Roast for about 5 to 7 minutes at 350°F.
  4. Cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve about ¼ cup of the pasta water.
  5. In a fry pan cook the onion in the Tbsp of oil until completely soft but not browned.
  6. Add the minced garlic and sauté for 1 minute more.
  7. To the onions add the herbs, cheese and pepper. Once the cheese has melted, add the pasta and toss, cooking, adding a few Tbsps of the pasta water. The pasta water will reduce and help create a creamy, more consistent sauce, combining oils with the starch in the water from the pasta. This will only take a couple of minutes. Taste and season with salt
  8. Add half the roasted plums and toss.
  9. If serving as a cold salad, arrange over lettuce leaves, aesthetically place the remaining plums on top and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. 
  10. If serving as a hot dish, arrange remaining plums on top and serve immediately.

Monday, June 26, 2023

How to Poach an Egg

Farm fresh eggs are the best to make great poached eggs. Fresh eggs have the membrane around the yolk still quite strong and the whites with good structure. As the egg ages, the whites become more liquid and so the membrane around the yolk weakens and easily breaks when you crack open the eggs. That's why the whites of older eggs will turn into long strands and kind of turn all shaggy and watery. The fresher the egg, the more the whites will form that lovely pocket of protein that holds the creamy yolk in place.

1 Tbsp vinegar 
Water
Fresh eggs (preferably morning of)

  1. Bring a deep pot (at least 4") filled with water to a slow boil. Turn the heat down and add the vinegar.
  2. Once the water is barely moving any more, prepare the eggs.
  3. OPTIONAL: To avoid the filaments that can form around poached eggs, first gently crack the egg into a fine sieve and drain away the lighter, watery egg white (which you can still save and use elsewhere).
  4. If only making one egg, create a vortex in the water with the handle of a wooden spoon and gently deposit the egg in the center.
  5. If making several eggs, gently deposit them in the barely simmering water away from each other.
  6. Cook for 3-4 minutes for runny yolks.
  7. Retrieve with a slotted spoon, drain and serve.
  8. TO MAKE AHEAD
  9. Prepare an ice water bath. After the eggs have finished poaching, immediately put them in the ice cold water and store them in the fridge for up to 2 days.
  10. When you’d like to eat them, just add some hot water to a small bowl or cup and add the poached egg until it’s warmed up (about 20-30 seconds).

Friday, June 16, 2023

Browned Butter Thyme Mushroom Pasta

This is a recipe all about timing. In theory you should be able to put the water on to boil, start prepping and cooking the other ingredients, pop the pasta in the boiling water and cook for everything to be ready at the same time. But, as they say, "man plans and god laughs". Stoves are all different and conditions change. Getting the two parts - the pasta and the mushrooms - ready at the same time to be combined is aspirational so definitely go for it. Good for you if you succeed. But if not, it's better to have the mushroom mixture ready before the pasta is cooked to avoid soggy, sticky pasta sitting and cooking for too long.

1lb pasta (chunky pasta or spaghetti-style)
½ cup pasta water
½ cup (4oz/114gr) butter
1lb cremini mushrooms, sliced thick (4 to 6 slices per mushroom depending on size)
Pinch of red pepper flakes
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbsp thyme, minced 
Splash of balsamic vinegar
Good pinch of salt
¼ tsp black pepper or to taste
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
For serving: chopped fresh parsley, extra Parmesan cheese, optional
  1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season generously with salt. Once boiling, add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water and drain.
  2. While the water is heating up, in a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Cook, swirling occasionally, until the butter stops crackling and starts to foam and smells slightly nutty, this should take about 3 to 4 minutes. This step is essential to get right - not browned enough and the sauce is just greasy, and browned too much and the milk solids in the butter burns. The key is to listen to the butter, and when is stops crackling, look to the milk solids on the bottom of the pan and let them get a nice golden brown then immediately add the mushrooms. The mushrooms will quickly absorb the butter and stop any browning of the butter as they begin to cook.
  3. Add the mushrooms and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are tender and browned, about 10 minutes. Then you'll have the mushrooms filled with browned butter, and the mushrooms themselves with has a crust of browning on them, too, for additional flavor.
  4. Add the garlic and thyme, cook for 2 more minutes. This is just to cook away that sharp raw garlic flavor.
  5. Add the splash of balsamic and cook for another minute or two, until it has mostly evaporated. Season with salt and black pepper, to taste.
  6. These next steps are also rather quick - you don't want the sauce to evaporate. 
  7. First, add the pasta to the skillet and toss well. Then, stir in the reserved pasta water. 
  8. Turn off the heat and slowly mix in the Parmesan cheese, stirring gently until melted. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
  9. ASAP, get the pasta out of the pan. Transfer the pasta to a serving plate or individual plates or bowls and garnish with parsley and extra Parmesan cheese.

Friday, May 19, 2023

Barley and Ham Pottage

One of the pleasures of cooking a great big ham is all the leftovers to use up. This dish is a warm hug with all its unctuous barley-ness and bites of ham. The Parmesan cheese, whether you cook in the rind or add the grated cheese or both, is the ideal finisher.

¼ cup dried small beans
3 Tbsps lard OR 2 slices bacon en lardons + 1 tsp olive oil
1 large onion, sliced thin (10oz)
1 carrot, diced (2oz)
1 med potato, diced (215gr)
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups chicken stock
2 sprigs thyme
4 leaves kale, ribs finely sliced and leaves cut into thin strips
OR
8 oz fine sliced cabbage
1 large tomato (7oz)
5oz  ham, diced
½ cup pearl barley
1½ tsps salt
½ tsp pepper
2 oz Parmesan cheese OR 1 small parmesan rind
  1. If using the optional beans, soak overnight and cook the next day until tender. Set aside.
  2. In a large Dutch oven or heavy bottomed soup pot, heat the lard over medium high heat (OR heat oil and add bacon; cook for 7 to 8 minutes until the bacon is nice and crispy).
  3. Add the onion, carrots and potato and cook until onion is well soft and starting to brown.
  4. Add the garlic and cook one minute.
  5. Add the stock, thyme, kale or cabbage, tomato, ham, beans (if using) and barley and, if using the Parmesan rind. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, until veg are tender (about 20 minutes).
  6. Taste to make sure the veg is cooked to your liking (remove the cheese rind if that's appropriate) and, if using, stir in the cheese and remove from heat to serve.

Monday, May 15, 2023

Stovetop Scalloped Potatoes "Gratin" with White Wine sauce

Sometimes you want scalloped potatoes and you don't have an oven. You can make this version on a hot plate and enjoy the creamy, cheesy potatoes. It's a bit fancy because instead of only dairy, the sauce is also made with white wine for a depth of flavor that really sets off the browning of the onions.

As a Side Dish for 6-8 people

2 Tbsps (1oz/28gr) butter
1 large onion, chopped
1 lb 8 oz potatoes, thinly sliced
1 tsp salt and pepper to taste
pinch nutmeg or 1 tsp minced fresh thyme
¾ cup heavy cream
¾ cup white wine
2 oz shredded Gruyère cheese
  1. Sauté the onion in butter until well browned and soft. 
  2. Add the potatoes, salt, spice of choice and wine. 
  3. Cook for a couple of minutes or until the wine starts to thicken from the potato starch and has loosened up all the browned bits from the bottom. You may have to scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to get the yummy browning to move.
  4. Add the cream and mix through. 
  5. Cover and cook slowly, approximately 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. 
  6. Remove the cover and sprinkle with cheese. Stir in very gently. 
  7. OPTIONAL : place under a broiler until the top starts to brown.

As a Main Dish for 4 people (with bread and salad)

2 Tbsps (1oz/28gr) butter
1 large onion, chopped
2 lbs potatoes, thinly sliced
1¼ tsp each of salt and pepper, to taste
pinch nutmeg or 1 tsp minced fresh thyme
1 cup heavy cream 
1 cup white wine
3 oz shredded Gruyère cheese
  1. Sauté the onion in butter until well browned and soft. 
  2. Add the potatoes, salt, spice of choice and wine. 
  3. Cook for a couple of minutes or until the wine starts to thicken from the potato starch and has loosened up all the browned bits from the bottom. You may have to scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to get the yummy browning to move.
  4. Add the cream and mix through. 
  5. Cover and cook slowly, approximately 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. 
  6. Remove the cover and sprinkle with cheese. Stir in very gently. 
  7. OPTIONAL : place under a broiler until the top starts to brown.

Monday, May 8, 2023

Chipotle Rutabaga Soup

The properties we've been living on here in the Southern Gulf Islands of BC have often been quite wet in the winter, holding water and often becoming waterlogged. Which seems to be ideal conditions for growing rutabaga (not underwater, but very wet soil seems to be fine). We've grown the Marion variety of rutabaga from Salt Spring Seeds, which seems to be very fine flavored and very sweet, without the harsh tang some rutabagas are famous for. But this soup, regardless of tang level, is very nice, with just a suggestion of heat from the smoky chipotle.

3 Tbsps (42gr) butter
1 medium onion, diced (6oz/170gr)
A meagre pinch of celery seed or 1 stalk celery, diced
2 large rutabagas, peeled and diced (1.5kg)
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth 
2 cups heavy cream
¼ tsp ground chipotle
¼ tsp paprika
1 tsp ground pepper
Salt to taste
  1. Melt the butter in a large pot and add the onion, cooking until browned. Season with salt and add the celery seed. 
  2. Add the rutabaga and the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until the rutabaga is fork-tender, about 30 minutes. 
  3. Add the chipotle and the pepper. Stir well.
  4. Process in a blender or food processor until smooth, and pass through a fine mesh sieve to remove any chunks. 
  5. Stir in the cream and taste to adjust the seasoning to your liking. 
  6. Gently simmer for 15 minutes more before serving.

Anda Karee (अंडा करी) or Egg Curry

6 Perfect Hard-Boiled Eggs , cut in half
¼ cup oil
2 bay leaves
1 cinnamon stick
1 green cardamom pod, lightly crushed
3 to 4 cloves
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp paprika powder
Salt
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 Tbsp grated fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, pressed (or garlic scapes, chopped fine)
½ tsp turmeric powder
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
1½ tsp coriander
1 tsp cumin
¼ + cup water (optionally, use coconut milk if you live where coconut trees grow)
½ tsp Garam masala powder
  1. Boil the eggs in advance at least to allow them a little time to cool before shelling them.
  2. Heat the oil; stir in the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, cardamom, cloves, cumin seeds, paprika powder and mix in the finely chopped onions.
  3. Reduce the heat to medium low and cook onions for almost 10 minutes, adding the salt, or until it is gently brown and very soft.
  4. When the onion is brown add the ginger and garlic; continue cooking until the sharp smell of fresh ginger and garlic sweetens and smells cooked, about a minute or two.
  5. When the garlic and ginger are fragrant, add turmeric, cayenne, coriander, and cumin powder, mixing well. Add the water so that the spices do not burn and are nicely mixed, cook until fragrant (if using the optional coconut milk add now).
  6. Increase the heat to medium and boil the sauce for 5 to 8 minutes, covered, then cooking down to achieve the desired sauciness.
  7. Add the garam masala and stir it in.
  8. Immediately afterwards, cut the eggs in half and add them to the pan, spooning over the sauce, and cook a few more minutes, just to heat through.
  9. Serve immediately with the cut side facing up. It's recommended to serve with a raita or plain yoghurt.

Monday, May 1, 2023

Spiced Porridge Cake with Caramel Icing

This recipe came together so quickly! The spicing complements the caramel icing so very well. It is so very strongly recommended that you wait at least 1 day, preferably 2 days before eating it. The flavors mature slowly and the result is well worth the wait.
Optional to the recommended spicing is to add one or two tsps of cinnamon. This would be good, but honestly, for a superlative cake, use the Ayurvedic Oatmeal.

1⁄2 cup (4oz/114gr) butter
2 cups white sugar
2 eggs
2 cups cooked Ayurvedic Porridge (about 1 recipe)
2½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
1¼ cup flour
  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  2. Cream together the butter and sugar. 
  3. Mix in the eggs and cooked porridge. 
  4. In sequence, add the baking soda, baking powder, salt and flour.
  5. Pour into a greased and floured spring form pan.
  6. Bake for 55 minutes or until it tests done.
  7. Once baked, allow it to cool completely, and preferably let it sit for a full day before removing it from the mold and applying the icing.
For the Icing: 

¾ cup (6oz/169gr) butter 
1 cup (7oz/200g) packed brown sugar 
½ cup milk
2 tsps vanilla extract
  1. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat.
  2. Add the brown sugar to the melted butter and cook, stirring constantly, until the butter and sugar are completely combined and you can’t see any separated butter in the mixture, which takes at least 1 minute.
  3. Bring to a boil over medium heat and continue cooking, stirring, for 2 minutes.
  4. Add the milk and vanilla (careful, the hot sugar mixture will bubble and spit for the first few seconds). Bring back to a boil over medium heat and continue cooking, stirring, for about 3 minutes.
  5. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. The longer it cools, the thicker it becomes. If it's too hot, it will be too liquid and just pour right off the cake, but completely cold and it will be difficult to apply. Be patient and wait. When it’s at your desired consistency, drizzle over the cooled cake.
  6. Wait at least one more full day before serving.

Friday, February 24, 2023

Olde English Blacke Berrie Pie

Adapted from a recipe in the classic Food in England by Dorothy Hartley, this is a surprising pie with a very thin crust. The apple thickens the filling so that when it is completely cooled, it creates a lovely silky loose jammy texture. If you've made Blackberry Liqueur, try cutting in about a cup of the boozy fruit with regular fresh berries for a little kick. If you pick your own blackberries, there is a difference in flavor depending at what time of the season you pick them. According to Hartley's research, the first berries should be eaten fresh, the mid-season berries used to cook with, the late season berries used to cook with and augmented by spices, such as ginger or lemon zest (brief notes in the recipe on this).

2 medium apples (364gr) peeled, cooked and mashed
1 Sweet pie dough recipe, rolled extra thin and the edges rolled up to be a bit thicker
A little oil
½ cup sugar
3 cups (432gr) blackberries (or substitute 1 cup with leftover blackberries from making liqueur)
¼ cup (2oz/58gr) butter
For Late Season Berries
- 2 tsps fresh grated ginger
- zest from ½ lemon
  1. Peel and core the apples. Steam with a little water to get perfectly soft, then mash fine. Mix in the sugar and allow the sauce to cool completely before mixing with the blackberries and before putting in the pie shell to avoid melting the butter in the shell. 
  2. If you have late season berries, now is the time to add the ginger and lemon to the apple.
  3. As the apple sauce cools, roll out the dough quite thin, ¹⁄₁₆" or about the thickness of a nickel. 
  4. Put in the pie plate and, to avoid soggy crust syndrome, brush the bottom with a little oil or melted butter to help seal it against the liquid of the blackberries. 
  5. Do not trim the crust. 
  6. With a wooden spoon, very gently combine the blackberries and the applesauce. Spoon the mixture into the pie shell, then dot the top with bits of butter. 
  7. Instead of cutting away the excess, fold over the crust, wet the edges and pinch together.  The extra crust should fold over the pie leaving an open center with irregular edges. Pop in the refrigerator or freezer for at least 15 minutes.
  8. When you're ready to bake, turn on the oven to 400°F. Brush the top of the pie with a little more oil and put it on a parchment-lined baking sheet to catch any drips and bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the crust is deep golden brown.
  9. Allow to cool completely before serving to allow for the juices to set.

Friday, February 17, 2023

Gruyere and Sausage Omelette

Butter, for greasing baking dish
2 Tbsps olive oil
1 small onion, diced
8oz to 1lb pound mild Italian sausage, casings removed
8 large eggs
½ cup whole milk
½ to ¾ tsp salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 + ½ cup (4oz) grated Gruyere cheese
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley or lovage (optional: + 2 Tbsps to sprinkle on top) 
  1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly butter an 8 by 8" baking dish.
  2. Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until soft. Add the sausage and cook until starting to brown. Set aside to cool.
  3. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, salt and pepper. Add 1 cup of Gruyere cheese and ¼ cup of parsley. Stir in the onion mixture. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown.
  4. Sprinkle with remaining parsley before serving.

Salade de carrottes (Carrot Salad)

This has become one of my go-to salads instead of leaf lettuce. Sometimes I'm looking to pair a different flavor, and sometimes it's for the colour. Seasonally speaking, it's also a way of having a crunch salad when leaf lettuce isn't available.

1 lb carrots, peeled and grated
2 Tbsps minced chives or chopped green onion
2 Tbsps minced fresh parsley

Dressing
3 Tbsps fine olive oil*
2 Tbsps lemon juice
2 tsps honey
1 tsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp salt
  1. In a large bowl combine the carrot, chive or green onion and parsley.
  2. To make the dressing, whisk all of the ingredients together in a small bowl until emulsified.
  3. Pour the dressing over the carrot mixture and toss until the carrots are evenly coated. 
  4. Allow the salad to marinate for at least 20 minutes before serving. Toss again before serving. 
*I don't usually talk about 'using only the best' of anything, but I did bother to point out that a fine extra-virgin olive oil would be choice in this instance. Regular olive oil is mainly for cooking and doesn't have much in the way of flavor. However, in a salad dressing of this kind you want to taste the olive oil, which is why a real cold-pressed, extra-virgin olive oil, preferably unfiltered, is best for a really tasty dressing but, if you don't have any, it'll be just fine.

Monday, January 2, 2023

Skirlie

This recipe puts me in mind of a traditional Scottish kind of gomasio. A crunchy and salty topping and snack food with plenty of flavor. It's good on all sorts of things but lends itself particularly well to Rumpledethumps.

¼ cup (2oz/58gr) butter (or bacon fat or beef suet)
1 onion (6oz/170gr) finely chopped
4 oz pinhead (synonyms: medium or steel cut) oats 
¼  to ½ tsp salt, or to taste
Pepper, to taste
  1. Melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the onion until lightly browned.
  2. Add the oatmeal and stir slowly until all the fat is absorbed; the onion should become dark and just crispy, about 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Rumbledethumps

A very starchy, fatty dish with vegetables, therefore it's good for you. Nah, I'm not like that. If you have ingredients that are grown naturally and with care, it's all good for you. And this traditional English recipe is particularly good when served with the superlative Scottish condiment, Skirlie. In fact, the recipe below includes when to start the Skirlie so it's ready in time to eat with the Rumbledethumps. If nothing else, I get a kick of announcing that we're having Rumbledethumps with Skirlie for dinner!

4-5 servings

2lbs potatoes, cooked and mashed
20oz turnip or rutabaga or kohlrabi, cooked and mashed
⅓ cup (5oz/76gr) butter
24oz cabbage or Kale, sliced very thin
1 tsp salt 
Pepper to taste
3 oz cheddar cheese
1 recipe of Skirlie
  1. Preheat the oven to around 350°F. 
  2. If you have to boil the potato and turnip to make this, boil them together.
  3. Melt all the butter in a frying pan and braise the cabbage or kale until softened (do not brown). 
  4. Add the mashed potato and turnip to the cooked veg and combine thoroughly to incorporate all the browning and butter from the pan. 
  5. Put the mash in an oven-proof baking tray, cover with a lid or aluminum foil and bake in the oven for about 30 minutes or until heated through and bubbling. 
  6. While baking, make the Skirlie.
  7. Remove the lid, sprinkle the cheese on top and cook until golden brown, another 15 minutes.
  8. Serve with Skirlie on the side for each diner to sprinkle on top as needed.