Friday, March 26, 2021

Jacques (apple spooncakes)

According to Elizabeth David, these are from the Perigord region of France. It's amazing how the texture improves if left to season overnight. They are small, custardy delicious little pancakes.

1 cup flour
½ cup of milk
½ cup water
1 Tbsp oil
a pinch salt
1 tsp sugar + more for sprinkling
2 eggs
2 or 3 small apples, preferably old and wrinkled, grated. If skin is tough, remove it.
Optional: rum or brandy
the juice from ½ lemon
Butter

NOTE: This recipe should be started several hours before making, preferably left overnight. 
  1. Mix together the flour, milk, water, oil, salt, sugar, and eggs; stir the batter very well, then let it rest for several hours to overnight.
  2. Grate the apples and mix in the lemon juice (and/or booze). TIP: if it's a fresh apple, take fists-full of the grated flesh and squeeze out as much juice as possible. Lightly desiccated this way the apple will more easily soak up the lemon or booze, and won't make the pancakes soggy.
  3. Coat a thick bottomed pan with a pat of butter and heat up until the butter just starts to froth. Turn the heat down to medium low for a slow fry.
  4. Using a wooden mixing spoon, drop a spoonful of batter onto the hot pan, making room for more; you should be able to cook at least four little spooncakes at-a-time in the pan. They are done when both sides are nicely browned.
  5. Put more butter in the pan for every new batch of spooncakes.
  6. Serve immediately. Tasty with maple syrup and/or apple butter and yogurt.

Galettes de Memère (Ginger Molasses Cookies)

Every day after school I would cross the single road that ran through my home village from the school yard to my grandmother's house - an apartment built on the top floor of an old house owned by a second cousin. She would always have a snack (une collation) for me, usually a glass of milk and some cookies. Most often, these were the cookies she made. As is common with so many grandmothers of my generation, her recipe was "a smidgeon of this" and "mix in the usual way" kind of instructions. It took me a while to figure out how to make them, and now I make them regularly, usually for special occasions.

1 cup Blackstrap molasses
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup (8oz/225gr) lard or butter
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp ginger powder
1 tsp salt
½ cup boiling water
3¾ cup flour
  1. In a mixer bowl, whip together the molasses, brown sugar and butter until it turns pale.
  2. In a separate bowl, combine the baking soda, the dry ginger, salt and flour.
  3. When the butter mixture starts to go pale, slow the speed to the slowest! It suddenly and unexpectedly splashes everywhere as soon as you add the the boiling water if the beaters are going too fast. 
  4. Mix thoroughly, then slowly add the dry mixture until combined.
  5. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
  6. Roll into balls (1 oz each), set on cookie sheets and flatten slightly.
  7. Cook in 350°F oven for 10 to 12 minutes.